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In attempting to approve home buyers for the type and amount of mortgage they want, mortgage companies basically look at two key factors: the borrower's ability and willingness to repay the loan. Ability to repay the mortgage is verified by your current employment and total income. Generally speaking, mortgage companies prefer for you to have been employed at the same place for at least two years, or at least be in the same line of work for a few years.

The borrower's willingness to repay is determined by examining how the property will be used. For instance, will you be living there or just renting it out? Willingness is also closely related to how you have fulfilled previous financial commitments, thus the emphasis on the credit report or rent and utility bills.

It is important to remember that there are no rules carved in stone. Each applicant is handled on a case-by-case basis. So even if you come up a little short in one area, perhaps one of your stronger points will make up for the weak one. Everyone involved in real estate is in the business of selling homes, in one way or another. Therefore, if the loan makes sense, mortgage companies and insurers will do their best to see that you qualify.

By its very nature, mortgage insurance is an aid to affordability, because it allows families to purchase homes with less cash on hand. The industry plays a central role in helping low- and moderate-income families become homeowners.

More and more borrowers are taking advantage of low down payment mortgages and becoming homeowners with as little as 5 percent down. For more information on how you can take advantage of the benefits of a low down payment home loan with mortgage insurance, contact your local mortgage professional or real estate agent.

The loan approval process generally begins with an initial interview where the prospective home buyer and the mortgage professional meet to discuss the potential loan. You will need to bring information to verify your income and long-term debts.

Often people prefer to meet with the mortgage company before house hunting to determine in advance what price range they can realistically afford and the mortgage amount for which they can qualify. This step is called pre-qualification and can save you much time and trouble by making certain you are looking in the correct price range.

For your first meeting with the mortgage company, you should bring:

A purchase contract for the house (if you have one) Your bank account numbers and the address of your bank branch, along with checking and savings account statements for the previous 2-3 months Pay stubs, W2 withholding forms, tax returns for two years, or other proof of employment and income verification Divorce settlement papers, if applicable Credit card bills for the past few billing periods, or canceled checks for rent or utility bill payments, to show payment history and amount of revolving debt Information on other consumer debt such as car loans, furniture loans, student loans and retail credit cards Balance sheets and tax returns, if you are self-employed Any gift letters, if you are using a gift from a parent or relative or other organization to help pay the down payment and/or closing costs. This letter simply states that the money is in fact a gift and will not have to be repaid. Having these items on hand when you visit the mortgage company will help speed up the application process. Usually an application fee and the appraisal fee will have to be paid when you submit the mortgage application. This is only done after you have successfully negotiated on a home and have had your offer accepted by the seller. Generally, there is no fee for pre-qualification.

After the initial meeting with the mortgage company, you should have a general idea if you qualify for the size and type of loan you want. The mortgage company should let you know if you qualify for the loan in 30 to 60 days. If you are denied a home loan, the mortgage company must explain the reasons. If this happens, the mortgage company will usually discuss any options with you.

Your mortgage company will begin the work of verifying all the information you've provided. This process can take anywhere from one to six weeks, depending on the type of mortgage your choose, whether you're buying a home outside your local community, or a host of other factors.

Within three business days after your application, the mortgage company must give you an estimate of your closing costs. (The closing is the actual settlement of your loan.) You'll also get a statement that shows your estimated monthly payment, the cost of your finance charges, and other facts about your mortgage.

For many home buyers, this waiting period can be nerve-wracking. So stay in touch with your mortgage company, be prepared to answer any questions that might come up -- and remember that mortgage companies are in the business of making loans, not denying them.

Some home buyers find the closing process to be one of the most intimidating aspects of buying a home because it's so unfamiliar. Ask your mortgage company what to expect at your closing

Be sure to respond promptly to requests for information while processing is taking place.

Be prepared to provide the following typical items:

The final purchase contract for the house (if applicable). Pay stubs for each applicant, showing earnings for the last 30 days and year-to-date earnings. (These must be computer-generated or typed originals that identify the employer and the employee's name.) Last year's W2 and 1099 for each applicant. If you're self-employed, the mortgage company may require your personal and business tax returns for the previous two years and your company's year-to-date Profit and Loss statement. Account numbers for all bank accounts, along with account statements for the past two months. Information about debts, including loan and credit card account numbers and the names of your creditors. Evidence of your mortgage or rental payments, such as canceled checks. An irrevocable gift letter if you are receiving a monetary gift from a relative.

An appraisal of real estate is the valuation of the rights of ownership. The appraiser must define the rights he intends to appraise.

The appraiser does not create value, the appraiser interprets the market to arrive at a value estimate. As the appraiser compiles data pertinent to a report, consideration must be given to the site and amenities as well as the physical condition of the property. An appraiser may spend only a short time inspecting the property, however, this is only the beginning.

Considerable research and collection of general and specific data must be accomplished before the appraiser can arrive at a final opinion of value.

Due to the many types of value, such as Fair Market Value, Insurance Value, Tax Value and Value In Use, the need to precisely define the purpose of the appraisal is essential.

The most common type of mortgage program where your monthly payments for interest and principal never change. Property taxes and homeowners insurance may increase, but generally your monthly payments will be very stable.

Fixed-rate mortgages are available for 30 years, 20 years, 15 years and even 10 years. There are also "bi-weekly" mortgages, which shorten the loan by calling for half the monthly payment every two weeks. (Since there are 52 weeks in a year, you make 26 payments, or 13 "months" worth, every year.)

Fixed rate fully amortizing loans have two distinct features. First, the interest rate remains fixed for the life of the loan. Secondly, the payments remain level for the life of the loan and are structured to repay the loan at the end of the loan term. The most common fixed rate loans are 15 year and 30 year mortgages.

During the early amortization period, a large percentage of the monthly payment is used for paying the interest . As the loan is paid down, more of the monthly payment is applied to principal . A typical 30 year fixed rate mortgage takes 22.5 years of level payments to pay half of the original loan amount.

These loans generally begin with an interest rate that is 2-3 percent below a comparable fixed rate mortgage, and could allow you to buy a more expensive home.

However, the interest rate changes at specified intervals (for example, every year) depending on changing market conditions; if interest rates go up, your monthly mortgage payment will go up, too. However, if rates go down, your mortgage payment will drop also.

There are also mortgages that combine aspects of fixed and adjustable rate mortgages - starting at a low fixed-rate for seven to ten years, for example, then adjusting to market conditions. Ask your mortgage professional about these and other special kinds of mortgages that fit your specific financial situation.

Most adjustable rate loans (ARMs) have a low introductory rate or start rate, some times as much as 5.0% below the current market rate of a fixed loan. This start rate is usually good from 1 month to as long as 10 years. As a rule the lower the start rate the shorter the time before the loan makes its first adjustment.

Index - The index of an ARM is the financial instrument that the loan is "tied" to, or adjusted to. The most common indices, or, indexes are the 1-Year Treasury Security, LIBOR (London Interbank Offered Rate), Prime, 6-Month Certificate of Deposit (CD) and the 11th District Cost of Funds (COFI). Each of these indices move up or down based on conditions of the financial markets.

Margin - The margin is one of the most important aspects of ARMs because it is added to the index to determine the interest rate that you pay. The margin added to the index is known as the fully indexed rate. As an example if the current index value is 5.50% and your loan has a margin of 2.5%, your fully indexed rate is 8.00%. Margins on loans range from 1.75% to 3.5% depending on the index and the amount financed in relation to the property value.

Interim Caps - All adjustable rate loans carry interim caps. Many ARMs have interest rate caps of six-months or a year. There are loans that have interest rate caps of three years. Interest rate caps are beneficial in rising interest rate markets, but can also keep your interest rate higher than the fully indexed rate if rates are falling rapidly.

Payment Caps - Some loans have payment caps instead of interest rate caps. These loans reduce payment shock in a rising interest rate market, but can also lead to deferred interest or "negative amortization". These loans generally cap your annual payment increases to 7.5% of the previous payment.

Lifetime Caps - Almost all ARMs have a maximum interest rate or lifetime interest rate cap. The lifetime cap varies from company to company and loan to loan. Loans with low lifetime caps usually have higher margins, and the reverse is also true. Those loans that carry low margins often have higher lifetime caps.

There isn't a single or simple answer to this question. The right type of mortgage for you depends on many different factors:

Your current financial picture. How you expect your finances to change. How long you intend to keep your house. How comfortable you are with your mortgage payment changing. For example, a 15-year fixed-rate mortgage can save you many thousands of dollars in interest payments over the life of the loan, but your monthly payments will be higher. An adjustable rate mortgage may get you started with a lower monthly payment than a fixed-rate mortgage -- but your payments could get higher when the interest rate changes.

The best way to find the "right" answer is to discuss your finances, your plans and financial prospects, and your preferences frankly with a mortgage professional.

The most common buydown is the 2-1 buydown. In the past, for a buyer to secure a 2-1 buydown they would pay 3 points above current market points in order to pay a below market interest rate during the first two years of the loan. At the end of the two years they would then pay the old market rate for the remaining term.

As an example, if the current market rate for a conforming fixed rate loan is 8.5% at a cost of 1.5 points, the buydown gives the borrower a first year rate of 6.50%, a second year rate of 7.50% and a third through 30th year rate of 8.50% and the cost would be 4.5 points. Buydown were usually paid for by a transferring company because of the high points associated with them.

In today's market, mortgage companies have designed variations of the old buydowns rather than charge higher points to the buyer in the beginning they increase the note rate to cover their yields in the later years.

As an example, if the current rate for a conforming fixed rate loan is 8.50% at a cost of 1.5 points, the buydown would give the buyer a first year rate of 7.25%, a second year rate of 8.25% and a third through 30th year rate of 9.25% , or a three-quarter point higher note rate than the current market and the cost would remain at 1.5 points.

Another common buydown is the 3-2-1 buydown which works much in the same ways as the 2-1 buydown, with the exception of the starting interest rate being 3% below the note rate. Another variation is the flex-fixed buydown programs that increase at six month interval rather than annual intervals.

As an example, for a flex-fixed jumbo buydown at a cost of 1.5 points, the first six months rate would be 7.50%, the second six months the rate would be 8.00%, the next six months rate would be 8.50%, the next six months rate would be 9.00%, the next six months the rate would be 9.50% and at the 37th month the rate would reach the note rate of 9.875% and would remain there for the remainder of the term. A comparable jumbo 30 year fixed at 1.5 points would be 8.875%.

When you're making your decision, there are several things in mind.

First, even a small rate cut can pay off quickly. That's because you can easily find mortgage companies willing to waive routine refinancing charges such as application, appraisal and legal fees (which can add up to $1,500 to $3,000). Of course, in exchange for low or no up-front costs, you'll have to be willing to accept a rate that's somewhat higher than the prevailing rock bottom.

Second, if you are planning to stay in your home for at least three to five years, it may make sense to pay "points" (a point equals 1% of the loan amount) and closing costs to get the lowest available rate.

And third, you can avoid laying out cash and still get a low rate by adding the points and closing costs to your new mortgage. Does that mean shouldering a lot of extra debt? Not necessarily. If you've had your current mortgage for at least three years, you've probably reduced your balance by several thousand dollars. So you may be able to tack your closing costs onto your new loan and still end up with a mortgage that's smaller than your original one -- plus, of course, a lower rate and lower monthly payment.

When rates fall steadily, refinancing may make sense even if you have done so once already. Bob and Michelle Barbo of Kirkland, Wash. refinanced twice within three months in 1998. In October, they trimmed the rate on their 30-year fixed mortgage by a full point -- from 9.13% to 8.13% -- for a monthly savings of $63. Plus, because home prices in their area had boosted their home equity, they were able to stop paying private mortgage insurance that cost them $120 a month.

To exploit continued decline in rates, the Barbos refinanced again in December. Their new 30-year fixed mortgage is at 7.375%, lopping another $55 off their monthly bill. Since the couple had chosen a no-cost refinancing each time, their total out-of-pocket expenses came to just $400 in appraisal fees. So by the time you read this, they will already have recouped their up front costs. "Now we can use the savings to build up a cash emergency fund," says Bob.

If you are considering a second refinancing, don't overlook this potential tax write-off: When you pay points to refinance, you must deduct the amount over the life of the loan, usually 30 years. But when you refinance a second time, all of the points that have not yet been deducted from the first refinancing can be written off in a lump sum. Say you refinanced to a 30-year mortgage in 1993 and paid $3,000 in points. By now, you would have written off roughly $500. If you refinance again this year, you could deduct the remaining $2,500 on your 1998 tax return. For a homeowner in the 28% tax bracket, that works out to a savings of $700 -- enough to offset some or all of your costs this time around.

When you refinance your mortgage, you usually pay off your original mortgage and sign a new loan. With a new loan, you again pay most of the same costs you paid to get your original mortgage. These can include settlement costs, discount points, and other fees. You also may be charged a penalty for paying off your original loan early, although some states prohibit this. The total expense for refinancing a mortgage depends on the interest rate, number of points, and other costs required to obtain a loan. To obtain the lowest rate offered, most mortgage companies will charge several points, and the total cost can run between three and six percent of the total amount you borrow. So, for example, on a $100,000 mortgage, the company might charge you between $3,000 and $6,000. However, some companies may offer zero points at a higher interest rate, which may significantly reduce your initial costs, although your payments may be somewhat higher.

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